Muga silk, the golden silk of Assam, made a spectacular entry on the ramp at designer Samant Chauhan’s show ‘Unadulterated Railways’. She shares, "Be it music, art or fashion, the cycle always takes you back in time. He used his quintessential style of English silhouettes in a very traditionally used fabric.. The idea was to keep the style simple yet innovative to transition the fabrics from traditional to a modern milieu. Even our fashion sensibilities have changed."The handloom clusters from remote tribal belt of Jharkhand inspired her to redefine muted glamour of tribal India. This is a unique effort to ‘preserve, protect and promote’ the queen of silk endemic only to Assam."Creating a blend of age-old royal fabric, Samant created a range comprising of muga weaves with zardozi embroidery and patches, matched with a travel accessory line of home-grown jute and leather.With the use of intricate detailing, interesting patterns and new techniques, the duo added a contemporary twist to their creations which draw inspiration from Indian heritage."Divya and Ambika Jain’s label Dabiri collection ‘Rumi’s message of romance’ also interpreted modern-day women using gota work with applique in tussar and mulmul. Riniki Bhuyan Sharma, president, Golden Threads of Assam who provided the fabric to Samant for his collection, shares, Wholesale disposable nonwoven isolation gown "With Chauhan we wanted to show that muga silk is not only limited to making mekhla chador and sarees but also to showcase how it can have value added diversified usage in other lifestyle and home decor products. So, the collection should not be restricted to India only. And we must use it to empower the people making it and the ones wearing it.

It should not be a one-sided journey," explains the duo. So, the collection is natural, not over-done, using local fabrics for the modern-day consumers keeping in mind the contemporary look. "In the prevalent times of climate change, we should embrace handlooms."It is very important to bring out a globally appealing collection while embracing our culture," says designer Shruti Sancheti who presented a collection titled ‘The Tribe’ using tussar silk. Hence, the resurgence of traditional fabrics. And handloom revival has seen only a few Indian designers experimenting on silks with the western look. But most often, silk is associated with Indian attire. "I have used very modern silhouettes to present an amalgamation of traditions and trends with chic trench coats, oversize crop tops, layered dhoti trousers, jumpsuit with trail skirt, variety of capes, sleek peplum jackets and long gypsy skirts.There’s a certain richness, grandness and regality about silk.

The idea is to educate people on identifying authentic silk fabrics and encourages them to invest in quality products," explains Sally Holkar. It looks a little rough but that same imperfection is its beauty. But we cannot expect the market to grow if we are not open for changes."The tone of the Amazon India Fashion Week was set by a panel discussion featuring designers like Gaurav Gupta, Sanjay Garg, Anita Lal from Good Earth, Sally Holkar from The Handloom School and Uzramma from Malkha India talking about the importance of handloom and using traditional weaves. Talking about the fabric Samant says, "Muga silk is more durable than ordinary silk. "The fabric is well-suited to our weather and if we give it a contemporary form, it works beautifully as a fabric that can be used every day. Designers like Shruti Sancheti, Divya & Ambika of Dabiri, Rina Dhaka and Samant Chauhan are rethinking Indian fashion and showcased a collection of modern silhouettes using silk fabrics like mulberry, muga, eri and tussar at the ongoing Amazon India Fashion. We look for comfortable clothing with chic style.

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